Home Hazards That Can Affect Our Pets

Is your home safe for your Furr Kids? It might surprise you to know how many hazards there are in a typical home for the pets we love.
Most everyone is aware that anti-freeze, pest sprays, rat poison and the like should be kept where no pet can get to them. And many of us have heard about plants that are poison to our pets such as mistletoe, lilies and poinsettias.
But have you ever considered the following potential dangers to your pet?
1. Electrical cords; pets chewing on electrical cords can receive a potentially fatal shock. This is especially prevalent around the holidays when extension cords are often used.
2. Ingesting harmful foods; chocolate can be fatal to pets.
3. Worn out toys; toys that are worn or badly chewed can begin to fall apart and small pieces of them can be swallowed.
4. Garbage; pets that get into the garbage can may eat bones, coffee grounds, spoiled food, cigarette butts, etc.
5. Chemicals; pets may ingest cleanser, soap, bleach, mothballs, paint, pool chemicals, fertilizers, etc.
6. Medications; many medications intended for humans can be fatal to pets, as can nicotine gum.
7. Open clothes dryer doors; the dryer is a wonderfully warm spot for a cat to take a nap…make sure they can’t get inside.
Other things may not be as obvious as those listed above. I once had a kitten that, unknown to me, swallowed a needle and thread. My first indication was a lump I noticed on his throat. When I got him to the vet, x-rays were taken and the item removed. The kitten and I were both traumatized!
When you are using potentially dangerous tools like power saws, drills, etc., make sure your pet is confined to an area away from your work place. Is your ceiling fan running when your bird is flying free in the house?
Pets usually investigate things with their mouths, and there are many dangers in the average home. Take a look around your house and see just how safe it is for your Furr Kids. A quick check may save your pet from injury or death, and you from expensive vet bills!

My Needs are Simple and Few!

My dear owner,
Thank you once again for giving me shelter. (Lick, slurp, lick, slurp) Aside from food, shelter and love, my needs are simple and few! Since I am dependent upon you to provide for me, we should discuss my basic needs. I can lend you the canine insight that you may lack as a human, particularly if I am your first canine companion pet.
Of course, I require a steady supply of food and fresh water, and while I long for the same quality of culinary delight that you routinely enjoy, I know that's an unrealistic expectation. As long as you feed me something that's nutritionally suited for my species, I'll happily devour whatever little morsels of people food you throw my way. I'm not particularly fond of that stuff that comes from the tap, but it'll do in a pinch. I draw the line at drinking from toilets.
Splish splash
In addition to my regular veterinary care, I'll need a flea and tick collar at a bare minimum. How would you like those critters crawling all over you? Please help me to prevent them from crawling on me.
If you want to show me off for company, how about you pick up some grooming aids so I can look my sexy best? I SO look forward to weekly shampoos. Who needs rubber duckies when you get to splash at humans at bath time? I understand that humans multitask, and I love those massages with the grooming gloves, so we could watch TV together while you give my coat a nightly massage. I cannot vacuum after myself (but maybe you could suggest that as an advanced course at obedience school), so you might want to pick up some of those hair pickup tools for yourself.
A bowl of my very own
I could use a doggie bowl or two, something simple, yet elegant, perhaps something with my name on it. It's not that I mind sharing your everyday bowls, but it would be nice to have something that's all mine when it comes to feeding and watering troughs. I'll need one for food and one for water, and an everyday pattern will suffice—no need for an expensive china pattern.
Collars and other jewelry
I look forward to our walks together, but it's just too tempting for me to stray when you walk me without a leash. I think the government suits must be on to us doggies, since they've enacted those pesky leash laws everywhere. So, if you want to continue spending this quality time with me, you'll need to find a leash that fits me properly, is strong enough to hold me, and is the proper length. If it's too long, I'll trip all over myself, but if it's not long enough, I won't have the room I need to roam. I know that there is a dizzying array of leashes available, but please use a little discretion and choose one with the right "look" for my breed so that all the other doggies don't make fun of me. They can be so darn cruel!
Creature comforts
I was told that most humans have jobs, so I understand that you'll be spending time away from me. If you could see your way clear to leaving a few creature comforts behind, it would really help. First, I don't want to hog your people furniture—it's too big for me anyway. I could use one of those nice, comfy doggie beds. Floors are meant to be walked on, not lounged upon. I know that there are a number of places that I should not go when you're gone, so spray that indoor repellent, and I'll learn the first time. I'm a quick study—something about Pavlov!
Dogs in toyland
Toys will help me pass the time, assist me in my development, and most importantly, distract me from the fact that you're not here. I could have some REAL fun if you'd get me my very own cat, but I realize that is not likely. Here is a list of things that I would really, really enjoy if you cannot get me my own cat:
- A nice supply of those rubber, chewy thingies
- Squishy, squeaky, talking toys
- Rawhide chews, dental chews, anything that I will mistake for a bone
- Treats, treats, and more treats – a never-ending supply of treats
Special occasion gifts
You humans have your porches, your patios and your tree houses. I would give my doggie eye teeth for my very own dog house. You could have Santa deliver it in time for the holidays, or you save it for a birthday treat. Either way, it'll give me my own little hideaway and protect me from the elements, should you take temporary leave of your human senses and leave me outside while you run one of your many errands. If you can't swing the canine estate just yet, maybe we could negotiate a doggie door?
Above all, I require the same devotion and attention that you expect from me. Treat me right, and I'll be your best friend for life.

So You Want To Own A Ferret?

You’ve seen them in movies and on TV shows, and the local pet store usually has some for sale. They seem to be intelligent and cuddly. But what do you really know about owning a ferret?
Ferrets live an average of 6-8 years, although some can be as old as 10. They tend to sleep a lot (about 18 hours a day!), but when they are awake they are very playful and fun to watch.
The domestic ferret is not to be confused with their wild cousins, the Black Footed Ferret, which is an endangered species. Never take a ferret from the wild to keep as a house pet.
Many people have the misconception that ferrets stink! Although they do have a slightly musky odor, it is not an offensive scent, and occasional bathing helps with this. Most ferrets sold in North America for pets have also been descented and neutered before sale, and this aids in cutting any odor they might otherwise have.
The name ferret is derived from the latin furonem, which means "thief." If you’ve ever owned a ferret, as I have, you know the name is well deserved. They will steal and hide anything that appeals to them, especially if it is shiny and easy to carry off.
There are many good quality commercial ferret foods on the market. It used to be a common misconception that you could feed ferrets a quality cat food, but research has shown that a quality ferret food is recommended. Ferrets require a diet high in protein (34 -36%) and one that contains about 20% fat. The source of the protein should be animal protein…vegetable protein is not adequate for a ferret’s metabolism, as it is indigestible to them.. Be sure to read the labels at your pet food supply store to ensure adequate nutrition. You can give your ferret treats such as apples, raisins and bananas or there are commercial treats available at your pet food supply store. Treats should be given sparingly, and are a great incentive for training purposes.
A ferret should have a cage that is large enough for them to move around in. They are very active animals when awake, and it is likely you will want to confine them to a cage when you are not home.
Ferrets can be trained to use a litter box. Here are a few suggestions:
1. Initially, keep the litter box in the ferret’s cage. Generally a ferret will use the box, and can be rewarded with a small treat when they do so.
2. After the ferret is used to using the litter box in the cage, you can gradually move the litter box further from the cage if you wish.
3. When you ferret is out of the cage, take them to the litter box frequently and reward them when they use the box with lots of praise and perhaps a small treat.
4. Ferrets back up to defecate or urinate, so if you notice your ferret backing into a corner when out of the cage, take them to the litter box.
Ferrets love to play! They will play with almost anything, so it’s very important that the toys they have available to them are safe. Things that are sharp or have small parts that can be swallowed should be avoided. Soft rubber toys are not a good choice as ferrets have sharp teeth and will destroy them quickly. Most of what a ferret plays with ends up in it’s mouth, so it’s much like “babyproofing” your house. Suggestions for ferret toys:
1. hard plastic balls
2. hard rubber balls
3. things they can crawl into…commercial ferret “tubes”, or a section of PVC pipe at least 3” in diameter
4. paper bags and cardboard boxes
5. rattles, teething rings, etc (toys made safe for human babies)
6. small stuffed animals
Remember…they will steal anything, so make sure you “ferret proof” your house. Oh…I forgot….When I bought my first ferret, I was told they do not climb. They are very good climbers, as I found out.
After reading all this, if you have decided you still want to own a ferret, Good For You! They are delightful, entertaining pets. I will never regret having a ferret as a FurrKid at one point in my life.

The Truth About Declawing

There seems to be an alarming trend to have cats declawed...whether it's due to personal convenience, apartment house rules and regulations, or simple lack of knowledge on the part of responsible pet owners.
There are many fine vets out there that actively discourage declawing, but there are also many who perform this surgery on a regular basis while never completely informing the pet owner what this really entails nor explaining the possible dangers of the procedure.
If people were more informed, perhaps this trend would reverse itself.
Declawing a cat is a major surgical procedure, performed under general anesthesia. It is actually amputation of the last joint on each toe, not a simple removal of the claw itself as many are led to believe. The following article explains the procedure of declawing.
Cats walk on their toes, unlike most mammals who walk on the soles of their feet. Their musculature, joints, tendons and ligaments are all designed to distribute their body weight to their toes.
The claw is not a nail like human fingernails or toenails. It is actually a part of the last bone in a cat's toe. If you were to "declaw" a human in the same way a cat is declawed, you would be amputating all 10 fingers at the last joint!
I found this description of the surgery in a veterinary textbook: "The claw is extended by pushing up under the footpad or by grasping it with Allis tissue forceps. A scalpel blade is used to sharply dissect between the second and third phalanx over the top of the ungual crest . The distal interphalangeal joint is disarticulated (disjointed), and the deep digital flexor tendon is incised (severed). The digital footpad is not incised.” This clinical explanation sounds horrific, doesn’t it?
There is a real possibility of complications after any major surgery, and declawing is no exception. There is the possibility of hemorrhage, infection, extreme pain, bone chips, possible regrowth of deformed claw, back, muscle and joint problems, damage to nerves, abscess and possible lameness. If the claw does regrow, it is often deformed and yet another surgery must be performed to correct this problem.
In addition to the possible physical complications, often there are behavioral problems following this surgery. The cat can become withdrawn, distant, fearful and/or aggressive, and often start biting, as this is the only means of defense left to them. Occasionally the cat will stop using the litterbox, because immediately after surgery it was painful to scratch in the litter box, and now they associate that pain with the litter box. Because of the amount of stress the animal experiences after this procedure, they may become more prone to other diseases, as stress tends to compromise the immune system.
The animal is in extreme pain following the surgery, and rarely do veterinarians offer any sort of pain medication for the cat.
There are alternatives to having your cat declawed...such as claw covers, scratching posts, regular trimming of the claws and behavior modification.
Many countries have banned declawing as an abusive practice which causes unnecessary pain and trauma to the animal. A veterinary textbook by Turner and Bateson on the biology of cat behavior concludes a short section on scratching behavior with the following statement: "The operative removal of the claws, as is sometimes practiced to protect furniture and curtains, is an act of abuse and should be forbidden by law in all, not just a few countries."
Unfortunately, declawing is not banned in the United States at this time. The American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA) says it is their policy to “recommend considering such surgery only if concerted behavior modification efforts have failed and euthanasia is pending.”
Declawing a cat is an abusive practice. Being informed of a procedure and possible complications should be the goal of every responsible pet owner.

How to Start a Pet-Sitting Business

Everyday someone asks me, “How do you start a pet-sitting business?” I try to answer their question succinctly. But the truth is, starting a pet-sitting business, or any business is not always a succinct process. Following are 21 tips that I know can lead to pet-care business success in any economy.
1. Accept what you don’t know. Not everyone who starts a pet-care business is an expert on every type of household pet. Be honest with clients who call requesting care for a pet you’ve never cared for. Your honesty and commitment to learning from them will go a long way in building long-term trust in you and your company.
2. Commit to learning about business. Unless you’ve run a series of successful small businesses before, you must create a self-education plan for yourself. No matter how much you love animals (and they love you) your business will flounder without attention to the mundane details of accounting, sales, marketing and filing.
3. Have a realistic budget. Set up a realistic budget for running your business. Be honest about how much money you need in order to pay your bills and invest in your business. Many pet-sitting businesses close because the owner did not evaluate how many visits they would need to perform in order to meet their basic financial needs.
4. Evaluate the competition. Make sure you understand what the other pet-sitters in your area are already doing, and what you can do better or more efficiently. If there are no other pet sitting companies in your area, find out what your potential customers currently do to care for their pets when they can’t be there.
5. Set realistic rates. Yes, you love pets and you can’t believe that you can get paid to have fun – that’s what a great many star athletes say too, yet they manage to make millions of dollars each year. You won’t likely be able to draw clients in by charging thousands of dollars for your services, but you won’t be able to serve pets well if you quit in 6 months because you need more money to survive.
6. Listen to pet-lovers. Ask pet owner’s what is most important about their pet’s care. Never imagine that you know everything – a pet owner always knows their pet best. Listen and you will learn how to serve them better.
7. Enjoy the people. I often joke that “Until that puppy can write a check, I work for his Mom!” And it’s true. The people who love their pets are your customers – even if you don’t see them. Check in with them and find out how they feel about your service. Make sure they understand that you are happy to work with them and you appreciate being part of their care giving ‘family.’
8. Make business decisions. You are in business, so treat yourself like a business owner. If you intend to work as a sole proprietor, make a decision to work only with the clients that contribute the most to your bottom-line.
9. Build Alliances. Work with the other pet-sitters in your area. If you need a back-up or you are booked, you need to know the other quality caregivers who service your area. You can ruin your great reputation simply by recommending someone who doesn’t live up to your standards.
10. Build alliances with other small business owners in your area. Who better understands the ‘downside’ of pet ownership than the dry cleaner or housekeeping service in your neighborhood? Their businesses are based partially on the pet-owning clients in your area. Ask to place your cards in their shops, or if you can run put a flyer in their monthly bills sent to their clients.
11. Serve the client, not your ego. It’s a heady experience to feel the power of running a business and sometimes you will think you know what’s best when caring for someone else’s pets. Realize that you need to ride the fine line between educating customers and talking down to them.
12. Be genuine. Everyone wants to work with someone “real.” When people are making decisions about letting a stranger into their home to care for their most precious possession, they want to feel that you are a real human being with an understanding and appreciation of their relationship with their pet. You need to be a business person with a heart – have all your forms and policies in place, but let your personality shine through.
13. Believe in yourself. This is the most important success factor I have found. Define your success by your rules and wake up every day with the knowledge that you can and will succeed.
14. Ignore the naysayers. Plenty of people are going to doubt you when you tell them this is your goal. Don’t listen. Surround yourself with people who believe in you and never stop moving forward.
15. Create systems to work smarter. Everything can be systemized to help you get everything done. Make a list of all your ‘must dos’, ‘should dos’ and ‘want-to-dos’ and determine how often they happen (annually, quarterly, monthly, weekly, and daily). Sit down with a calendar and plug in the activities that will accomplish your lists.
16. Network. Just like building alliances, you need to step up your ‘face-time’ in your community. Investigate several networking opportunities in groups that are industry specific (like pet-rescue organizations, pet-sitter networks) and business or community specific (like the Chamber of Commerce, or NAWBO). After visiting several, select the ones that are most effective for your business – both in terms of referrals for new business and for educational purposes.
17. Evaluate. If something is working (or not) for you – find out why. Ask questions of everyone – your happy (and unhappy) clients. Find out what keeps happy customers coming back. If someone decides not to hire you for their pet’s care, ask them what influenced their decision. If their decision was based on an area where you can’t compromise - you won’t provide every other day service for cats – move on. If it’s something you can improve upon - they thought you were too abrupt on the phone – fix it! Get to the heart of what drives your business and take time each day to improve.
18. Set goals and action plans. You must know what your objectives are for you and your business. When you envision your life in a year, three years and ten years, what will you be doing? How will your business be running? Whether you intend to serve ten clients for life, or you want to establish the top pet-sitting franchise in North America and Europe – you need to have a goal and a plan.
19. Find your niche and stick to it. When I started peggiespets.com, I was intimidated by narrowing to a niche. By defining your niche and marketing to them, you are not turning away other business (our niche is big dogs and puppy potty training) you can continue to accept all the business you want that is outside of your niche (ask all the terriers, birds and rabbits we care for!).
20. Strive for success everyday. Never compromise your ideals to meet someone else’s expectations. The reason you started your own business is because of your passion, so always stand by your convictions and work hard to exceed your expectations each day.
NOTE: You’ll encounter people who don’t do business the way you do, and you’ll find clients that don’t live up to your expectations…don’t lecture, don’t get on your soapbox, just politely point them in a different direction.
21. Help someone else succeed. The more you give away, the more you will receive. Whether you are helping another pet-care business get started (with more than 65 million dogs and 77 million cats in American households according to APPMA– there’s room for more pet-care providers!) or you’re helping another person achieve their dream, you will be more successful because you participated!
Follow these tips to achieve your own brand of pet-care business success!

Our Pets Behavior

Behavior can be a huge iisue with our pets. If each dog and cat owner in the United States took the time to understand the root of their animals'
behavioral issues, our animal shelters would be substantially less populated with strays. Around sixty percent of animals in shelters are there simply because of various behavioral problems. When cats start scratching furniture and dogs begin barking continually, it is quite natural to say to ourselves: I didn't sign up for this. In some cases a pet's behavioral problems can be entirely or almost entirely health related. In some other cases they can simply be a product of our own mistakes as owners. When all is said and done, who would really want to use a litter box that has not been cleaned in several weeks?
Before you do anything else you must overcoming our pets' behavioral problems by using our imaginations...... to get into their minds and to try to understand the world through their eyes. Then we may actually see that we ask an awful from our pets. First of all, we put them into a human-created environment and then expect them to simply forget their wildness and behave in ways that suit only us. Many of the things that we teach our animals go against their nature. We sometimes ask our cats to relieve themselves into small trays when it is only natural for them to do so anywhere in their territory. And we discourage our dogs from barking at our guests or passerby when it is
they are just trying to communicate with strangers who are entering their environment.
If it is not stress or some kind of illness, then we should look at ourselves as owners: are we asking our dogs and cats to behave in ways which are totally impossible under the circumstances that we have provided for them? For example, are we asking our cats to use litter boxes that we rarely even clean? Or are we asking them to keep their paws off the couch when we have provided nothing else for them to scratch for the long hours in which we are gone? Are we asking our dogs to defer their whole worlds to us, while all we offer in return is a few hours a day of our aloof presence sprinkled with paltry playtime and affection?

Probiotics - The Good Bacteria

PROBIOTICS - The Good Bacteria - Does your pet have digestion problems, diarrhea, skin problems, food intolerances, or other chronic health problems? Supplement with a high quality pet probiotic to restore your pet’s healthy gut, and chances are you’ll improve your pet’s health.
A probiotic, sometimes referred to as good or friendly bacteria, is a microorganism necessary for a healthy and balanced intestinal tract. There are two types of bacteria found in the intestinal tract, good and harmful bacteria. Good bacteria, or probiotics, ensure good health as they are absolutely vital to help:
1. Produce natural antibiotics, which can fight harmful bactera.
2. Regulate and increase hormone levels.
3. Manufacture B group vitamins, biotin and folic acid.
4. Stimulate the immune system.
5. Reduce food intolerance.
6. Increase energy levels.
7. Inhibit the growth of some yeast.
8. Absorb nutrients, antioxidants and iron from food that is
eaten.
9. Reduce inflammation.
10. Increase digestibility of food.
Several things can destroy the intestinal bacterial balance in a pet’s gut. Overuse of antibiotics destroys good bacteria as well as bad. Moreover, stress, poor diet, pollutants, environmental changes, and prescription drugs can also deplete beneficial bacteria.
Other culprits of good bacteria include chemical fertilizers, pesticides, and soil sterilizers in agriculture which damage the soil ecosystem and the natural flow of bacteria found in the food chain. These chemicals, as well as chemicals in the water supply, reduce the good bacteria in the gut. This allows harmful bacteria to multiply and produce large amounts of toxins and carcinogenic agents. These toxins inhibit the normal function of the digestive system and increase the demands placed on the liver and kidneys. Consequently, this speeds up the aging process and leads to various diseases and digestion problems.
Pets with large amounts of beneficial bacteria are better equipped to fight the growth of unhealthy organisms. So, if pets are to maintain a healthy body, they need large quantities of friendly bacteria. Supplement a well-balanced diet with a high quality pet probiotic and give your pet the health that he most certainly deserves.

Natural Approaches to Dealing With Pesky Fleas

Problems with Commercial Flea Killers & Traditional

Flea Bite Treatments

***Chemicals that act as poisons are strong enough to

kill fleas, but the long term effects on pets are

unknown, although they are probably not safe to

use. (Employees manufacturing these products must

wear protective clothing and use respirators.

Plus, the product labels warn against skin contact.

So,if the chemicals are potentially harmful to

humans,they are probably not the most healthy

product for pets. )

***Prednisone & other corticosteroid drugs used to

give relief from flea bites help to stop itching &

inflammation. But, they also suppress a pet's

immune system and have possible long-term side

effects: water retention, liver or thyroid damage,

hypertension, obesity, & heart attack.

Healthy Alternatives

***Strengthen your pet's immune system:

Eliminate food allergens from the diet, and

supplement the diet with a well-balanced

essential fatty acid (EFA), probiotics (bifidus

& acidophilus) & digestive enzyme supplements.

EFAs help to make your pet less attractive to

fleas, and digestive supplements carry nutrients

throughout the body & help to breakdown & remove

waste materials that may lead to food allergies.

***Herbs

-Add a pinch of garlic powder to food.

-Add apple cider vinegar to your pet's water.

-Sprinkle 1/2 teaspoon dried Nettle onto your

pet's food (helps to reduce allergic response).

-Add to food or squirt into pet's mouth a low-

alcohol liquid tincture of Dandelion Root,

Burdock Root, or Red Clover (helps eliminate

wastes & supports immune system).

-For severe flea bite allergies (red, inflamed,

itchy skin), licorice serves as an anti-

infammatory. Also, an aloe juice can help to

heal & to relieve itching. Directions: Add

one cup aloe juice to 4 parts water. Pour the

cool liquid onto affected areas of your pet's

coat.

***Environment Treatment

Since fleas spend 80% of their time in the

pet's environment, not on the pet, apply herbal

products to your pet's environmental areas

(bedding, etc.). Look for products that contain

extracts and/or oils of eucalyptus, citronella,

juniper, cedar, citrus oil, or Canadian fleabane.

(Citrus oil & Canadian fleabane contain d-

Limonine which can kill fleas.)

***Bathing

Bathe with a good, mild herbal pet shampoo

formulated to bring relief and remove fleas and

body wastes from the skin.

Only use shampoos meant for pets, not humans.

(Human shampoos are often too harsh and may

contain allergens that worsen a pet's allergic

condition.)

Also, don't shampoo too often or irritation &

dryness may occur.

Seizures in Pets

Witnessing your precious dog or cat having a seizure can be a most frightening experience. During seizures pets often lose control, fall over, chomp their teeth, salivate or drool, whine, paddle with their feet, and begin to urinate or deficate on themselves. Their eyes become large (dilated) and unresponsive. A pet caregiver feels panicked and helpless while watching it all happen.

Hopefully, you and your pet have never, and will never, have to experience this shocking event. But, if you have, or if you experience it in the future, this article will help you to understand what causes seizures, what you can do while your pet is having a seizure, and the various treatment options available.

What causes seizures? Epilepsy is one cause. Certain dog breeds are more susceptible to epilepsy. These include: cocker spaniels; poodles; collies; german shepherds; irish setters; golden retrievers; dachshunds, labrador retrievers, saint bernards, miniature schnauzers, siberian huskies, and wire-haired terriers. Veterinarians are not sure what causes this “hereditary” epilepsy.

In cats hereditary epilepsy is unusual. Vets can normally find the cause of seizures. These include chemical toxins (which includes chemical preservatives used in many pet foods), brain tumors, feline leukemia, feline infections, peritonitis, feline AIDS, head trauma, and problems with the liver and kidneys.

In dogs there are many causes of seizures besides hereditary epilepsy. Allergies to food and the chemicals, preservatives, and artificial flavors put into the foods can cause seizures. Other causes include liver and kidney disease, tumors, poisonings, and low blood sugars.

What can you do while your pet is having a seizure? Try to stay calm. This is hard to do, but using a calm, reassuring quiet voice will comfort your dog or cat. Move any furniture or other objects on which your pet could hurt itself. If you’re unable to move the object, place pillows or wrap blankets between the pet and the object. Slide something soft under your pet’s head, but be sure to keep your hands and face away from his head so that you don’t risk a possible bite. You can gently stroke his hip or side, but position yourself opposite the side of the feet and toenails as the muscle spasms make the feet curl into claws that can gouge or rake your skin. Dim the lights, and keep the environment as quiet as possible by turning off the TV and loud music.

If possible take notes about the seizure so that you can give details to your vet. Jot down the time of day it occurred, the length of each seizure, and the time in between each seizure if they are recurrent. Your vet will also want to know whether your pet urinated or deficated, if the seizure hit suddenly or progressed from mere body twitching, whether your pet regained consciousness, and how long it took before your pet appeared normal again. In addition, you’ll need to figure out whether there were any possible triggering events. These include loud noises such as fireworks, unusual items that were eaten, and excessive playing or exercise.

After the seizure, pets usually appear lost or drugged. This drugged state can last a few minutes to several hours depending on the severity of the seizure. Your pet may respond to you, but do so in a very slow manner. Since seizures are exhausting for your pet, he will probably want to sleep afterwards. It is best to allow him to sleep, but check in on him occasionally without disturbing his rest.

If this is your pet’s first seizure, call your vet as soon as possible. Some vets will want to see if another seizure occurs, while others will perform a variet of blood tests to check for anemia, liver & heart functions, calcium, glucose, & electrolyte levels. Your vet may even run a screen for possible toxins, take x-rays, or perform an electroencephalogram.

The test results may not indicate the specific reason for the seizure. In this case, your vet may wait to see if another seizure occurs or he/she may suggest medications. If the diagnosis is epilepsy, pets have an excellent chance to live a normal life as long as proper medical care and follow-up are provided.

If you discover the cause of the seizure, you may be able to eliminate future seizures by eliminating the seizure’s source. For instance, if the seizure is due to chemcial toxins, make sure your pet remains as free of toxins as possible. Provide human grade food and treats that do not contain chemical preservatives, fillers, or byproducts. Clean your house with chemical-free products. Also, use more natural flea, tick, & heartworm prevention products as some of these products may lower your pet’s seizure threshold and make seizures more difficult to control. Avoid products containing organophosphate insecticides. For safer heartworm prevention, use products containing interceptor and filaribits.

What can you do if your pet’s seizure condition cannot be cured and you realize you and your pet may have to live with the seizures? In the past, the only treatment options available were strong anticonvulsants that could have serious side effects. These still may be your only option. But, more natural approaches have been found to help some pets, either prior to stronger medications or in addition to them so that you may be able to lower the dose. There are a variety of treatment options that include a natural diet, acupuncture, nutritional supplements, homeopathy, herbs, and conventional medications.

As mentioned above, give your pet a human grade diet, free of chemicals and additives. Also, remove other toxins from your pet’s environment. Clean with natural products and use more natural flea, tick, and heartworm prevention measures.

Minimize stress in your pet’s life. Try to avoid sudden changes in his environment, loud noises, and other stressful situations.

You can also try herbs that act as sedatives. These include valerian root, kava, skullcap and oatstraw. Note that when using herbs and supplements, you may need to lower the dosage of other anticonvulsants.

Several supplements appear to help in preventing seizures. Try an antioxidant combination of Vitamin C, E, B-6, and selenium. Your vet can recommend the dosage for your pet. Magnesium and DMG (dimethyl glycine) are other helpful supplements.

Acupuncture is another helpful option which has helped to control seizures in many pets. Sometimes just placing an ear acupuncture tack in a dog’s ear will stop seizures, and this only requires one acupuncture visit.

If the ear tack doesn’t work, gold implants can be placed in different locations under a pet’s head. Or your pet can be treated with traditional chinese acupuncture.

As you can see, there are many natural approaches to treating seizures in pets. These should help your beloved pet to live a normal and comfortable life.

Tired of Vet Bills?

Do you make a lot of trips to the vet's office? Do you spend your hard-earned money on vet bills because your dog suffers from chronic ailments? Give your dog or cat the nutrition he needs, and chances are you can spend your money on other things rather than giving it to your veterinarian.

Nutritional deficiencies are often the cause of chronic ailments in pets. Most holistic vets believe that improving a pet's diet will boost health and vitality and often restore chronically ill dogs to health.

Pets need to eat a variety of fresh, whole foods. A balanced, raw, home-made diet provides the nutrients pets need to heal from the inside out.

If you don't have time to feed a home-made diet, buy the best commercial pet food you can find, one made with human-grade ingredients and without chemical preservatives, byproducts, and fillers. (These foods may be difficult to find in grocery stores and pet stores, but are easy to find and purchase on web sites.) Then improve on it. Fresh juice and raw liver are two of the healthiest foods you can add to your pet's diet:

**Fresh Juice (for dogs only):

Use a juicer if you have one. Most dogs love carrot juice, and it contains zinc, vitamin E, beta carotene, copper, and other ingredients that strengthen the immune system. It's best to use organic carrots, and you can add celery, parsley, or apple. Feed directly or mix with your dog's food. Try to feed 1/2 cup juice per 25-30 pounds of weight each day.

**Raw Liver (for both dogs and cats):

Some vets consider liver a miracle food because of its ability to save lives and improve health. Raw beef and chicken liver are rich in amino acids, protein, phosphorous, potassium, copper, and Vitamin A & B-complex.

Feed liver only from organically raised cattle and poultry because the liver stores toxins. You can add raw liver to the fresh juice you make or add it to your dog's food. To help sick pets, feed small amounts of organic calf or chicken liver once or twice per day (one teaspoon per 10 to 20 pounds of body weight).

If your dog has multiple health problems, supplements can also help:

**Digestive Enzymes such as pancreatin and bromelain help to replace enzymes destroyed by heat. Give enzyme supplements between meals.

**Probiotics and Prebiotics contain bacteria that help with digestion and fight infection. They replace bacteria destroyed by an inadequate diet or antibiotics.

**Colostrum and Lactoferrin enhance immune function.

**Vitamins and Minerals are especially helpful when pets have multiple infections. Choose a vitamin/mineral supplement made from whole-food sources. Pets can easily assimilate these.

**Amino Acids are the building blocks of proteins, and proteins are needed to construct every cell in the body.

**Garlic fights infection, helps prevent cancer, expels tapeworms, prevents blood clotting, and makes pets less attractive to parasites such as fleas.

If you provide your pet with the nutrients he needs, you should see a much healthier and happier pet. And maybe that money that used to be spent on vet bills can now go towards a new car, home improvements, a vacation, or even a savings account!

Why Does My Pet Eat Grass?

Are you concerned when your dog or cat eats grass, then throws up afterwards? You’ll probably feel relieved to know that pets eat grass because their bodies need it.

Dogs and cats have been eating grass for a long time. In fact, grass is so popular among dogs that one species, dog grass, is named after them. Dog grass is also known as couch grass and quackweed, and it grows in all but the southern-most states.

You can think of grass as an herbal medicine. It acts as an internal cleanser, expelling excess mucus, bile, and other impurities. It also cleanses the bowels and expels worms. Cereal grasses contain enzymes, vitamins, minerals, and amino acids. Grass also contains chlorophyll, which was used for relieving pain, treating infections, ulcers, skin diseases, and anemia prior to the use of antibiotics.

Some pet owners grow grass specifically to give to their pets to prevent or treat diarrhea, anemia, cataracts, fleas, tumors excessive shedding, and other pet health problems. Pets that are fed grass on a regular basis are less likely to crave outdoor grass. So, if you don’t feel comfortable with your pet eating the grass in your lawn, you may want to grow your own grass for them to eat.

Try growing rye or barley sprouts. These sprouts are preferred over wheat grass because some animals are sensitive to wheat.

Follow these instructions to grow rye or barley grass. Soak one cup organically grown grain in one quart water for 8 to 10 hours. Then drain the container and leave it on its side in a warm place, away from direct sunlight. A tiny white rootlet will sprout from each grain within 24 to 48 hours. Caution: If you don’t see these rootlets, your grain isn’t viable and should be thrown away.

Next, spread the sprouting grain on one inch of moist potting soil or top soil in a plastic garden tray. For drainage create a one inch channel around the soil.

For two days, cover the tray. Then uncover it, and water thoroughly. Place the tray in direct sunlight or under grow lights. Keep the soil moist by watering when needed.

When the grass is 6-8” tall, cut it with scissors or a sharp knife. Place grasses in a ziploc bag, along with a damp paper towel. Be sure to expel air from the bag before sealing. Then store the grass in the refrigerator.

When feeding the grass to your pet, cut or mince it into tiny pieces, or place a small amount in a blender or food processor with other foods. To be sure your cat or dog will accept the grass, begin feeding just a fraction of a teaspoon. Increase the amount gradually to approximately one tablespoon per 50 lbs. of body weight.

Once your pet is given the amount of grass his body needs, you probably won’t be seeing him eating the grass in your lawn. And you can feel relieved knowing that you’re feeding him something that he craves and that his body needs.

Pet Ear Infections

Is your dog or cat tormented by ear infections? Do you spend time and money at the veterinarian's office trying to bring relief to your beloved pet, only to find that another infection appears over time? If so, you may want to try some more natural approaches to preventing and treating your pet's ear infections.

Dogs and cats have an incredible sense of hearing. To protect their hearing and prevent damage to the ear drum, their ear canals are L-shaped. The problem with this design is that it allows the ears to trap parasites, moisture, debris, and earwax, and any of these can lead to ear infections. Up to 80 percent of ear problems in dogs are linked to allergies, and earmites are often the cause of infection in cats.

The traditional treatment for ear infections is to give antibiotics, antifungal medications or other drugs. The problem with this approach is that drugs upset the normal chemistry inside the ear and can possibly turn a simple infection into a long-term problem. It makes more sense to deal with underlying allergies and strengthen the immune system so that it is able to fight bacteria and other germs BEFORE they cause infection. Also, there are many natural treatments for cleaning the ears and stopping infections without using drugs.

These are the Signs of an Ear Infection:

*Pet shakes head or holds it to one side.

*Pet scratches or rubs ears, or rubs head against furniture or carpet.

*There is a yellow, brown or black discharge in one or both ears.

*Ears smell bad or are tender or red.

The Solutions

*Clean the ears with vinegar - If your pet's ears are filled with brownish-pink wax, there is a good chance that allergies have caused a yeast infection. To clear up yeast infections, clean the ears thoroughly. Veterinarians often recommend using white vinegar, also called acetic acid, because it removes dirt and debris and helps restore a healthy chemical balance in the ears.

Diluted vinegar works well. When using vinegar, pour a small amount into the ear canal, massage the area, then gently wipe the inside of the ear with a cotton ball. Do this once a day until the ear is better.

*Stop infections with pau d'arco - The herb pau d'arco, which comes from the inner bark of a South American tree, is a natural antibiotic that quickly kills fungi and bacteria. At the first sign of infection, mix equal parts pau d'arco tincture and mineral oil and put several drops in your pet's ears. Give the drops two or three times a day for several days.

*Reduce inflammation with vitamin C - The adrenal glands produce a natural steroid that can help reduce inflammation when ears get infected. Giving pets vitamin C can help the adrenal glands work more efficiently. Pets weighing under 15 pounds can take between 100 and 250 milligrams of vitamin C a day. Cats and dogs 15 to 50 pounds can take 250 to 500 milligrams a day, and larger dogs can take 500 milligrams two or three times a day. Vitamin C can cause diarrhea, so you may have to cut back the dose until you find an amount that your pet will tolerate.

*Eliminate toxins with a healthy, all natural diet - Giving your pet a healthy, homemade diet or high quality commercial food that doesn't contain corn, additives or preservatives can greatly reduce the amount of wax that the ears produce, while also helping to boost the immune system.

*Air out the ears - Increasing air circulation inside the ears can control the growth of bacteria, yeast and fungi. Trim or pluck hair inside the ears periodically to allow more air to get inside.

*Strengthen the digestive tract - Supplements such as bromelain and quercetin (with bromelain) can help prevent an allergic response in the gastrointestinal tract, making food allergies less of a problem.

*Stop ear mites with oil - When an infection is caused by ear mites, putting a few drops of almond oil or olive oil in each ear will smother the mites and may allow the infection to heal. You usually need to continue the oil treatments for three to four weeks, putting three to seven drops of oil into the ear canals each day. To help the treatment work more efficiently, clean wax and other debris from the ears before
using oil.

*Try an over-the-counter remedy - One of the best ways to stop ear mites is with over-the-counter products containing pyrethrins. Made from chrysanthemums, pyrethrins are natural insecticides that are very safe to use. Just follow the instructions on the label.

When to Call the Vet

Ear infections can look and smell awful, but they usually affect only the outer part of the ear and aren't too serious. If you're unable to get to the source of the problem (especially if your pet is still scratching a lot), you will want to see your veterinarian to find out what is causing the problem. Vigorous scratching can break blood vessels in the earflap, causing the entire ear to swell like a balloon. This condition is called hematoma and must be drained by a veterinarian to prevent permanent damage.

Other symptoms to watch out for include head tilting, clumsiness, walking in circles or drooping eyes. These are signs of an inner-ear infection, and must be treated by a vet. Your pet will probably need antibiotics to knock out the infection. In addition, your vet may need to drain pus and other fluids from inside the ear!

Frustrated Over High Veterinarian Bills?

Over the past 30 years we have learned so much about taking good care of our pets, right? We feed them “premium” high dollar pets foods, give them tasty packaged treats, vaccinate them yearly, bathe them with expensive shampoos, give them heartworm preventative, use flea collars or flea and tick preventative, brush their teeth, and get yearly checkups with our vets.

Then why are our pets not healthier? Why, instead, are they getting more and more humanlike diseases such as allergies, diabetes, thyroid problems, cancer, and on and on? Why are their coats not so shiny anymore, and they seem to scratch and itch all the time? Why are they so lazy and sleep all the time? Why do they still smell bad, have waxy ears, and bad plaque on their teeth?

The biggest problem points to nutrition, or lack thereof. But I feed my pet a high premium pet food recommended by my vet you might say. Exactly – that, however, is the problem. These so-called premium foods are full of “byproducts”, corn meal, and many other things our pets were never designed to eat nor utilize in their bodies. The preservatives alone are not allowed in human products so how could our pets be expected to digest these toxins without repercussions to their health? The “byproducts” are things that should just be destroyed and not used for anything let alone pet food.

Another problem is exactly the thing you thought were protecting them: yearly vaccinations. This is a huge problem because the rabies vaccine is the one that is mandated by law and it the very worst one for your pets. These yearly vaccinations are not only not necessary but could be a major contributor to the diseases that are plaguing our pets. Vaccinosis is the result of all this over vaccinating and possibly even the culprit behind all the diagnosed diseases resulting in the decline of the health of pets.

Combine poor food, over vaccinating, with the toxins from flea collars, pet toothpaste, packaged treats, and preventative medicines and you’ve got unhealthy, immune suppressed pets that lack the energy to do much more than sleep.

Okay, so now what? Fortunately there are solutions and the best one to start with is food; preferably raw. If that doesn’t appeal to you there are other solutions and answers to help you help your pets on the road to wellness. There are now pet foods on the market that have human grade ingredients without all the toxic preservatives and byproducts. Here are a few to get you started:

http://www.canidae.com

http://www.pets4life.com/

http://www.shirleys-wellness-cafe.com/petfood.htm

http://www.holistichorse.com

http://www.herbsnbirds.com

There are solutions to protect your pet in lieu of vaccinations and still comply with the law. Holistic veterinarians have alternatives to help you in this area:
http://www.altvetmed.com,
http://ahvma.org

When a pet has a healthy immune system, they won’t smell bad, have waxy ears, and cruddy teeth. There are alternatives to using toxic flea collars and preventative medicines for your pet. Use the resources provided in this article and you will find the best solutions for you and your pets. You can lower your vet bills and your pets can live longer, healthier lives.

Pets Looking for Humans, Humans Looking for Pets

Attention breeders, livestock owners and pet lovers!

*Pets looking for humans, humans looking for pets!*

A website has been formed to show your classified for
buying or your just wanting to search for a specific
kind of pet. You have plenty of space for writing
what is special about your pet or what it is that
you are looking for in a pet.

You also have the option of leaving a picture on the
site of the pet(s) in whick you are selling. We only
deal with persons in the United States to keep illegal
purchases from being made.

The cost is far lower than any classified ad, and has
the potential to reach far more people than a regular
newspaper would. With being able to use approximately
100 words, you are guaranteed to get attention drawn
to your ad! As a seller, you reserve the right to turn
anyone down who you feel unfit to have your animal.

There is no illegal sales allowed on this site, and
no sales of endangered species!

I believe that the prices are set at a fair and
reasonable level.

I have added a pet rescue page to the site as well.
If you have any names or numbers for me to put to the
list, I am more than happy to put the info on the site.

http://www.petclassifiedsusa.com

I am a mother of 2, a wife and a disabled veteran. I wanted to help out with money since I cannot get a 'regular' job. I chose to get into this type of business since I know that there are people all over the Unites States wanting to buy or sell pets and livestock. All animals need love, all humans need love.... bring them together and you have man and his best friend!

A New Nutritional Approach for Both Pet Allergies and Allergies to Pets

A New Understanding of Allergies

Allergies of all kinds seem to be on the rise--both for people and for their pets. The exciting new science of Glycobiology points strongly to a common basis for many of these allergies; and the revolutionary new nutritional technology of glyconutrition, which has developed from this new science, is proving to be a very effective--and natural--way to help both pets and their owners get marked relief from their allergies.

A recent 12-year longitudinal study with people who began the study as young, healthy adults found that the functional level of their immune systems declined, on average, at the rate of about 3% per year. This rapid decline is correlated with a corresponding increase in the incidence of auto-immune diseases and a proliferation of allergies of all kinds--including allergies to pets.

Ironically, however, pets also are commonly afflicted with stubborn allergies that are a source of much distress--and expense--for their owners. And, very commonly--just as with their owners--medical interventions that mainly focus on treating the symptoms are quite ineffective.

The findings of Glycobiology suggest that this prevailing approach may be barking up the wrong tree, so to speak, and that a nutritional intervention that, instead, supplies the body with crucial micronutrients that are lacking is likely to be far more effective.

Glycobiology has now established that every cell in the mammalian body requires eight necessary sugar molecules in order to function effectively. These sugars combine with protein and fat molecules into glycoforms that attach themselves to the surfaces of every cell in the body. Under an electron microscope, they look like weird trees growing on the cell surface. One of their most important functions there is to allow cells to communicate effectively with each other.

To the degree that these "super sugars" are deficient, cell-to-cell communication tends to break down and some form of illness starts to develop.

An insufficiency of these sugar molecules is particularly disastrous for the immune system, because it causes the cells of the immune system to become, in effect, partially blind. These cells can then become over-reactive in attacking allergens of all kinds and even in attacking the tissues of the body; on the other hand, ironically, they may become under-reactive in attacking true pathogens that are serious threats to the body.

Unfortunately, six of these crucially-important sugar molecules are seriously lacking in the modern diet. They are commonly found, however, in vine-ripened fruits and vegetables and also in many of the wild foods that our stone-age ancestors consumed in abundance.

When these glyconutrients, as they are called technically (glyco from the Greek word for "sweet"), are provided in adequate quantity to the body through supplementation, all of the cells in the body start functioning much more effectively. This is especially true for cells in the immune system. As cell-to-cell communication improves in this system, it tends to become better modulated--that is, less likely either to over- or under-react. Correspondingly, allergies and auto-immune conditions tend to diminish or disappear.

Just as these crucial glyconutrients are lacking in the modern diet for humans, they are similarly deficient in nearly all commercial pet food, which is also loaded with artificial dyes, perservatives and additives. The ancestors of our canine and feline pets--just like our human ancestors--have spent eons eating wild, natural foods, and this is what their systems are designed for. It is only in the last several decades that they--along with their owners--have been exposed to commercially prepared foods, as well as the chemicals these foods contain - chemicals that their bodies (as well as ours) cannot tolerate. In addition, artificial ingredients in these foods can trigger an immune response that, quite literally, can make pets sick.

An Example of Applying this New Approach

The following true story illustrates just how effective glyconutrition can be in helping to restore balance to a pet's over-reactive immune system.

Ted, a Golden Retriever, is the pride and joy of his owner, Mary. His chronic, severe ear infections and skin rash, therefore, distressed her very much. She consulted with various Veterinarians and tried every kind of treatment she heard of to get them under control. But nothing worked.

When a friend recommended glyconutritional supplements as a possible remedy, she was very skeptical. After giving Ted a teaspoon of glyconutritional powder, mixed with ice cream, once a day for about two weeks, however, his ear infections and his skin rashwa went away. Her skepticism continued, however, so she stopped giving it to him when her supply of these natural sugars ran out. Almost immediately, his ear infections and skin rash came back.

Still skeptical, Mary got some more of this product and resumed the previous regimen; and again, after just a few days, all of his symptoms went away. Around this time, a close friend and dog lover who knew Ted very well and who didn't know that he was receiving this daily supplement, commented to Mary that she had never before seen his coat looking so healthy and shiny. And then, as they both observed Ted more closely, they noticed to their surprise, that he had grown eyelashes that he didn’t have previously!

Ted then continued to be symptom-free for a period of several months. But then, once again, when the supplement supply ran out, Mary thought that he might not need it anymore. But, again, all of his symptoms quickly returned when she stopped giving it to him. She then quickly started him on this nutritional regimen once again, and this has continued to be a part of his daily diet to the present time—about two years since he first started. He remains completely free of his original symptoms and both he and his owner are delighted. After examining him, a Veterinarian who had treated him unsuccessfully for many years, was very impressed and decided to try this new nutritional approach with some of her other pet clients.

Impressive though they are, very similar results have been reported for animals subject to a wide array of health challenges that have also received glyconutrients. Some of these results have been presented on an audiotape by Arthur Young, DVM, a homeopathic Veterinarian with over 50 years experience. (Information about how to obtain a copy of this tape is available from the author.)

Anyone interested in learning more about glyconutrition--for their pets and/or for themselves--can do so by clicking on the URL below.

George Shears is a retired psychologist and wellness consultant living in northern Minnesota. He is deeply committed to promoting health and wellness. His main mission is to help people discover important alternatives to mainstream medicine in preventing and reversing chronic degenerative diseases.

http://www.mannapages.com/mildredshears

But My Pet Will Never Run Away (or Why We Need Licenses)

The city I live in just increased its fees for dog and cat licenses. It's now $30 a year for unneutered/unsprayed pets and $20 a year for sprayed/neutered pets.

Even though these are not major dollars, there wereplenty of complaints. Some people consider theincrease (we were at $5) just a way to raise moremoney during budget cuts. Some people who keeptheir pet - especially their cat - inside all the time think it is unfair to make them pay at all.

Please remember that licensing your pet has several benefits for all of us:

1. It ensures that dogs have had theirrabies vaccinations. Rabies is 99.9%fatal for dogs and humans and requiringproof of vaccination for a license protects the entire community. Thereare irresponsible owners who might notdo this if it wasn't required.

2. Licenses help cities keep track of how many pets a person owns and howmany dogs are in the city.

Many cities limit the number of dogs or petsany one household can have. Again, given thenumber of irresponsible or deranged peopleout there, this is a necessary limitation for community health.

3. Licenses tell the animal control officers that a dog has an owner and isn'tan abandoned or stray dog. In some cities,unclaimed dogs without licenses are euthanized in fewer days than dogs with collars.

4. Licenses may have contact information about the owner, thus helping reunitedogs with their owners. If you thinkFido would never bolt out your doorto chase a bike runner or butterfly, you don't know dogs.

5. Licenses requires collars which enableowners to include more tags. For example, you can note any serious illnessesyour dog has (e.g., diabetes) or note onthe tag that you guarantee payment of emergency medical bills for your dog.

6. License fees help pay for localanimal shelters and animal control officers.Yes, my city's increase is driven bybudget cuts and thank goodness, my cityis progressive enough to find the money to maintain our animal control department.

7. License fees help motivate owners tohave sprayed/neutered dogs through thecost reduction. If owners aren't planningto show or breed dogs, having the dogssprayed or neutered is a health benefitfor the animals.

No one likes taxes or fees, but sometimesthey do have good reasons to exist.

Vaccinating Our Pets

I'd like to talk to you about pet vaccinations. I cannot tell you legally what to do since I'm not licensed but I can share with you what I do with my own pets – or in had done!

I actually believe several things happened to my own dogs due to the practice of overvaccinating...

My previous dog, Fridge - a big, beautiful golden retriever boy - was an amazing and wonderful dog. I got him as an 8 week old puppy from a client of the veterinarian I was working for at the time. During that time parvo virus was really wrecking havoc on our dogs and puppies, so the vaccine was being further developed and supposedly made better.

Well, since I was so entrenched in the "traditional" medicine idea that you use preventatives, vaccinate, and feed kibble, then vaccinate some more, I proceeded to REALLY vaccinate Fridge. He got a good series of puppy vaccinations because I was taking him with me to work on a regular basis. I wanted to make sure he was really "protected". Well, I may have ended his life early by overdoing it.

You see, Fridge started having seizures shortly after I started his regimen of vaccinations. I never equated the two either. He always had so many allergies to so many things. I was using regular fertilizers, cleaners, and pesticides on top of it all. It never occurred to me that Fridge was most likely suffering from heavy toxicity due to all the chemicals he was encapsulated in, including the overvaccinating.

Poor guy, I wonder if things would've been different if I had known the truth. I think so. He's one of my primary reasons for publishing AspenbloomWellPet. Shadrach, my Neapolitan Mastiff, is my other primary reason. I want to help pet owners NOT go through what I've gone through with my two special boys.

My husband and I got Shadrach as a rescue. Not a traditional rescue but a rescue nonetheless, meaning my cousin rescued him and we ended up with him. I was a bit further along in my knowledge of a natural approach for humans, in fact much further along but not as savvy on pets, YET. Shadrach has been implemental in my discovering and continuing to discover the way to true wellness for pets using natural remedies, products, and approaches.

I vaccinated Shadrach, a couple of times, normal puppy shots. I didn't overdo it but Shadrach's system was already compromised due to the fact he had been abused and nearly starved to death prior to coming to live with us. He needed raw food, natural care, not more toxicity to battle. He was not well the first year and half we had him and now I wonder if the vaccinating and preventatives (pesticides really) were compromising his system further. I was still feeding "premium" kibble. I used flea and tick shampoo. I used the heartworm preventative. During all this time I also painted my house - more toxins for Shadrach to battle AND my husband and I.

Shadrach had continuing health problems, especially allergies and skin problems. He contracted Bordetella from a dog friend of his. He was so sick for nearly 3 months. He got 2 full courses of antibiotics and got skinny all over again. It was agony for us to see this young dog so sick and we thought we were doing all the right things. In fact, I vaccinated him for Bordetella a few times after his illness thinking I was further protecting him when in reality I was most likely further compromising his system.

Thank God, I started researching things. I thought, "if we can do natural for us, why not our critters". I discovered this whole world of holistic natural care, and you are now reading my findings. I found a couple of great holistic vets willing to help educate me. Now, at 5 1/2 years old, Shadrach is fully "natural". He's healthy and I believe that's why he is healthy. I am hoping that I didn't shorten his sweet life by my unknowing "care". I've met some wonderful people in the holistic industry who've guided me and helped me learn. Now I'm going to be further educated and certified so I can help as many others as are willing to learn. My hope is that many more animals will be spared the harm that was done, albeit unwittingly, to my poor boys.

Animals have always been my passion and now coupled with the need to share natural care, I hope many will be spared unnecessary pain and suffering - critters and their owners.

Dealing With your Pets' Allergies

It is Winter time again, a time of the year when pets and humans are very vulnerable to each other. As this is obviously the chilliest time of the year, animals are much more likely to be cooped up inside the house with us. All of the windows and doors are closed to the world and the heat is blasting around the clock.

These are precisely the conditions which make our winter homes playgrounds for some kinds of allergens. Our dogs and cats are considerably vulnerable to the dust in the carpet, the mold inside the walls of your old house and other pets. But warm moist times of the year are high allergy times as well. Allergies are simply the most common conditions affecting cats and according to the Kansas State University, 15% of dogs suffer from common allergies like pollen and house dust. An allergic reaction is the work of an overactive immune system. It is when an animal responds abnormally to a seemingly everyday substance like grass or general food ingredients.

Of the different kinds of allergies, contact allergies are the least common in cats and dogs. An Example of a contact allergen is a flea collar. Grass and various kinds of bedding such as wool are also examples. An Inhalant Allergy is the most common allergy for cats and is also prevalent in dogs. This particular kind of allergy is caused by the hypersensitivity of the immune system to environmental substances. A Flea Allergy is the single most common dog allergy but is also common cats. The normal dog or cat suffers only somewhat minor irritation in lieu of a flea bite with minimal itching.

A food allergy is also somehat common in pets. Cats often become allergic to their most common protein such as tuna. Dogs can be allergic to proteins like chicken and beef. When it comes to allergies, like most things it's a matter of controlling, not curing. Once an animal's body becomes hypersensitive to certain things, it is then eternally vulnerable to those things.

Regarding treatment of allergies, the most common treatments are topical products like shampoos or antihistamines. There are also certain supplements that you can give to your pets to help support

the insides of their bodies, which to an extent determine the condition of the outside. Studies have shown that if we shampoo our pets' coats on a regularl basis, it is much less likely that foreign substances will enter through the skin. Regular bathing discourages allergens -- irritants such as dander and dead hair. When our pets itch and injure their skin, it leaves their internal landscapes much more vulnerable to skin problems.

Herbs for Pets

Let me begin by saying that I am not an herbalist. I do not recommend using herbs as internal medication for your pets unless you have consulted a holistic vet and/or have done extensive reading and research and feel safe treating your pet. There are a lot more holistic veterinarians practicing today than in the past and you should have no trouble finding one if you live in or near an urban area.

The information I share here is strictly a minimalist take on the use of herbs as a natural way to help you and your pet with daily care and common conditions. Herbs can be substituted for many of the topical medications and household chemicals we use with animals. Besides using herbs, be sure that your pet is getting a good overall natural diet and plenty of sunshine. Sunlight is necessary for good health and helps their bodies convert food nutrients. If a regular dose of the outdoors in not possible, use full-spectrum lighting such as Vita-Lites. These are ideal for indoor pets such as birds, reptiles and amphibians.

But back to herbs. Irritated eyes are a common ailment and can be treated with eyebright used as a wash. It can also be administered as a strong tea taken internally to boost the immune system. Or you can make a saline solution for the eyes of 1/8 teaspoon sea salt in ½ cup boiling water. Once the solution has cooled, add 1 drop of goldenseal per tablespoon of the saline solution. It shrinks swollen tissues and disinfects.

Itching: A common cause of itching is fleas and flea bites. Brewer’s yeast can be sprinkled on food, 1 teaspoon per day. BUT, some animals are allergic to Brewer’s yeast, so watch for dry skin that can itch as much as the flea bites. An alternative to Brewer’s yeast is adding a capsule of garlic oil in the food once a week. It helps keep biting insects away and is good for the immune system.

A good herbal flea dip can be made as follows: 2 cups packed fresh peppermint, pennyroyal or rosemary; 1 quart boiling water; 4 quarts warm water – pour the boiling water over the herbs and allow to steep for 30 minutes. Strain the liquid and dilute it with the warm water. Saturate the animal’s coat thoroughly allowing it to air dry. Use at the first sign of flea activity. You will probably need to repeat this treatment every three or four days but it is totally safe.

If you would rather use a dry flea treatment, try an herbal powder made of one part each of eucalyptus, fennel, rosemary, rue, wormwood, and yellow dock. Put this mixture in a shaker (like the kind used for parsley flakes). Apply sparingly to your pet’s coat by brushing the hair backward with your hand or a comb. Sprinkle the powder at the base of the hairs, especially on the neck, back and belly. You may use this several times a week. Put Rover outside after the treatment so that the unhappy fleas may disembark in the backyard, not the house!

To rid your carpeting of fleas, after removing the pet, sprinkle Borax over the carpet and rub it in. Wait a while and then vacuum. This is a good, non-chemical alternative flea control. Use once a week until the problem is gone.

For itchy, dry skin, use tea tree oil anywhere except near the eyes or genitals. Aloe is also good for itching. Itching may be caused by the shampoo or flea collar you use. Bathe the animal in all natural shampoo, (available at Barker and Friends, www.naturalbarker.com) and find a natural alternative to that flea collar!

Another skin treatment will control mange and overall skin conditions. Thinly slice a whole lemon, including the peel and add it to one pint of near-boiling water. Let it steep overnight. Sponge the solution on your pet’s skin and let it dry. This may be used daily if needed.

Cuts: Use fresh aloe and scrapes and cuts. It is a natural antiseptic and moisturizer. You can clean the wound with a wash of goldenseal before applying the aloe.

Carsickness: Try a few drops of ginger root extract prior to setting out in the car. For long trips, try an additional dose halfway through the trip. Another herb good for carsickness in dogs is peppermint tea or capsules. It will settle his stomach. Cats don’t tolerate peppermint well, so use only for dogs.

Anxiety, Stress: Our pets live in the same stressful world we do. They also suffer anxiety. Try a combination of extracts of Oats, Valerian and Chamomile or rub a little lavender oil near the muzzle or place some on a cotton pad in his bed or sleeping area. It works on humans, too!

Diarrhea, vomiting: Try powdered slippery elm bark.

Shiny coats: one teaspoon cod liver oil sprinkled over food one or twice a week will improve the texture and shine of your pet’s coat and will provide valuable nutrients.

Vitamin C: 500mg to 1000mg daily can ease arthritis in dogs and cats.

I hope this bit of information will help you realize that there are natural alternatives to over the counter, chemical treatments for ordinary conditions in your pet. Contact your local health food store for herbs and herbal extracts. For more in depth information, read All You Ever Wanted to Know About Herbs for Pets by Mary & Gregory Tilford. It is currently out of print, but I had no trouble finding a copy at my local library and there are used copies available through my Amazon.com link at www.naturalbarker.com. See my Favorite Links page.

Please check out the natural shampoo bar available on my website. It is chock full of herbal herbal oils and promises a safe, natural way to bathe your pets without the risk of irritating, toxic ingredients. It’s called the Critter Bar!

Encouraging Word:

God is our refuge and our strength, an ever-present help in trouble. Therefore, we will not fear, though the earth give way and the mountains fall into the heart of the sea, though its waters roar and foam and the mountains quake…Psalm 46: 1-3

Got Fleas?

Author of Keep Fleas Off

Still using all the chemicals you can find to combat those fleas? Have you done everything outside of trying to shoot the fleas off the dog? You are not alone, there are an estimated more than 50 million households with pets, and yes, most are not just fighting the war against these pesky parasites, they are losing the war. Most people do not realize just how devastating the losses are. If only 10 per cent of these pet owners are treating the yard for fleas, can your imagine the amount of harmful chemicals that is getting into the ground water? These chemicals make their way to the sea where they have been found in fish and the seabirds that feed on fish. Clean water is a valuable resource, we cannot afford to destroy it. Think about all the chemicals put in our water now just to make it “safe to drink”; if you want to believe that it is.

Bathe your pet with a so-called flea shampoo, and you leave behind a petrochemical residue that can be unsafe for the pet and the household. If that is not bad enough, the pet will lick himself and yes, take an oral dose. Go into any grocery store and head for the pet care aisle. If you smell the flea products in the store, you are experiencing a nose full of their off-gassing. Face it, chemicals off-gas.

Perhaps, you think that flea powder is a better choice. Guess again! After holding your poor animal down long enough to sift this disagreeable stuff into his fur, he is going to shake off as much of it as possible, and who could blame him. This fine dust will migrate into anything around, the carpet, the furniture, and maybe even your own hair. It is sure to get up your nose. Maybe this is the universe trying to get you to stop this harmful practice. At any rate, now the flea powder is further out into the pet’s fur, clearing the way for the fleas to continue to travel the skin on the pet, biting him and leaving behind debris. At minimum, you have fouled the environment, and you probably did the powdering inside your home. Since we have all probably done it, don’t beat yourself up, at least not the first time.

Flea collars are another dangerous choice that we have all made. The poison is right there on the collar for the purpose of rubbing off onto the pet. Will it rub off on anything else, like the hands of a small child, or even your own? You bet! Does your pet sleep in his collar? In your bed? What do you think is happening here? Essentially, we are just rubbing heaven knows what kind of chemicals all over us when we sleep with a pet that is wearing a poison necklace. Should you quit associating with your pet? Absolutely not! Pets are a valuable part of our lives. They offer companionship and teach us a lot as well. Just show them more respect and stop using those awful flea collars.

Continuing your sojourn through the parasite jungle, the veterinarian’s office is probably going to be your next stop. Aha! The flea dip. It has to work! Well, why not, it contains a contact killer, and because you got it from the vet you will assume it safe. Maybe it will kill the fleas that showed up on the pet today. Of course, submerging him in this poison means that some of it will be absorbed into the pet’s skin. Cats are especially sensitive, and dips have been known to kill some. It makes many sick. If it poisoned or weakened your pet, would you know what to look for? How many hours would you need to monitor your pet? When you pour out the dip, where does the poison go? So many questions, so many freaky answers. This should steer you away from flea dips.

The average pet owner is pretty sure that a flea spray for misting the pet on a regular basis will not only work, but is a real easy solution. Coating the outside of the hair doesn’t work because the fleas will travel under it along the skin where the blood cells can be reached. Use this method, only if you want a toxic cloud that will float above the pet for you to breathe, or maybe, it will make its way into your air conditioning ducts and be well distributed throughout your home. Remember that these sprays contain poisons. If we breathe them in, our bodies can store them. Many people will think that this is just the price that must be paid, after all this is a war on fleas! The bigger question here is: “Do you really want your home to become a toxic waste site?” The residue spewed into your environment is going to stay there until someone cleans it up. And depending upon how you go about the clean up, you could just be making it worse, especially if you are using chemicals for the cleanup. Unless you are a chemist, don’t assume that it is safe to mix one chemical with another.

Of course, you could always use pet meds, that is, medicine for the fleas that the pet must take. That hardly seems fair! Would you be able to tell how bad your pet feels from the side effects? At one time or another we have all taken a medication that we found to be disagreeable. The problem here is one of communication. The pet cannot tell you that the medicine does not suit him.

So, now you are ready for the weapons of “vast destruction”. You go for the big guns. You will start using the poison to the back of the neck. That ought to take care of them, if the fleas come along first, before little hands. Of course, the liquid can be absorbed into the skin of the pet getting into his blood stream and going to all parts of his body. Most hearts and livers don’t really require poisons. How about yourself, did you absorb any? Did you breathe in any vapors? Does the product continue to emit vapors? If you can smell it, maybe you already know that the vapors are there. Keep in mind that many of the spot treatments contain chemicals that are known to be neurotoxins. Like most of the population, you did not read the label, nor would you recognize the names of any neurotoxins. And you probably would not know that neurotoxins can affect the brain. Your pet may develop a twitch from a neurotoxin. Don’t you wonder if the same thing could happen to you? While the pet is in the most danger from this, the person applying it is not home free! This stuff can rub off and be distributed anywhere in the environment of the pet, affecting any life form in this environment. It is important to realize that the difference between poisons to kill fleas and poisons to kill higher life forms is simply the size of the dose. Since our bodies can store and accumulate poisons from the environment, we have no way of knowing what could be in store for us as a result of exposure to these poisons.

Recently, there were more than 28,000 sites, on just one search engine, on the internet related to pesticide poisoning from flea products. No matter what the reasons were, the poisoning happened because the products were available, and a reasonably logical person thought them safe for use. We readily accept whatever we are used to seeing. Harmful flea products are in the mainstream of our lives. Just go to any big food store, home improvement store, drug store, pet food store, and yes, even the Walmart, and you can find an arsenal for combating fleas.

Until 1990, I used everything available for flea control. After many bad experiences, I realized that I was declaring chemical warfare on my pets, my home, my yard, the environment, and on myself as well. Knowing that this had to stop, if I were going survive, I set out to find a pesticide-free way to keep fleas off my cats. My first step was to eliminate everything that had not worked for me in my war against fleas. So, I had to forget all the flea products that I knew about. Living in Florida, meant combing off the fleas every hour if the cats went out on the screened porch, but I did it, in addition to wearing out a good vacuum cleaner. After a couple of years of trial and error, I developed a simple, cheap, and safe method that is so effective that the cats seem to be “invisible to fleas”. Not only am I happy to be able to keep fleas off my cats, but I feel good about giving up my life of crime against the environment.

There are many sites on the internet where you can find out all the names of the harmful chemicals used in flea products. Anti-pesticide groups offer a lot of valuable information, as does the NRDC (National Resource Defense Council) and the CDC (Center for Disease Control). Even some animal rescue organizations post warning against certain products. Personally, I think that the terms KEEP OUT OF THE REACH OF CHILDREN and WASH YOUR HANDS AFTER HANDLING should give us the clues we need. Plain and simple, do not use these products, there is something unsafe about them. Trust me, the manufacturer is not just adding this information to make the label larger. There had to be a law somewhere that forced them to put these warnings on. Restrictions of this sort don’t surface until harm has been done, and until a lot of action has been taken by environmental groups. Your best course of action is to do the research yourself. Do not wait for the mainstream (corporate) media to inform you about what to use to keep fleas off your pet. The information that they decide you should have is influenced by advertising dollars from the chemical industry.